What are the Last Native Flower to Bloom in Wisconsin?

As we move through fall, blooming flowers begin to wink-out one by one. But if you’re looking for just a bit more bright colorful wildflower cheer, here are the latest blooming native plants in our area (and where to find them).

Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus)

This may not be the latest blooming wildflower, but its big, showy, blooms for a long time. It blooms through most of October. Another more common sunflower, sawtooth sunflower, can also bloom pretty late. It has narrower leaves, and its most-likely the one you see blooming on the roadside as you drive by.

Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus)

Bottle Gentian (Gentiana andrewsii)

Gentians are a delight in the early fall with their bright blue flowers that really pop-out in a landscape where most other plants are fading. The last of them bloom about when the trees are in the fall colors. Bottle gentian can be found in undisturbed wetlands and is often planted in rain gardens.

Bottle Gentian (Gentiana andrewsii)

Hairy Aster (Symphyotrichum pilosum)

Another common name for hairy aster is frost aster, because it can bloom through the first frost. It’s a simple white flower with several native look-a-likes. Its unique in its ability to brighten up an otherwise weedy area. This species is our most common white aster, it is sometimes in prairie seed mixes, but spreads very well on its own to any disturbed area, urban or rural.

Hairy Aster (Symphyotrichum pilosum)

Aromatic Aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium)

Asters are known as a fall-blooming group in-general. Aromatic aster is one of the last to start blooming, hitting its stride in mid-October, and weather permitting, carrying on into November. In the wild this species lives in dry rocky places, but its quite happy (maybe a little too happy) in regular garden soil.

Aromatic Aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium)

Harebell (Campanula rotundifolia)

Though their primary bloom season is in late-spring and early-summer, harebells will often put out additional flowers at other times of year if conditions are favorable, such as high soil moisture content and/or moderate temperatures. The photo below was taken on November 16th! Harebell is typically found in dry prairies.

Harebell (Campanula rotundifolia)

Common Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)

This shrub’s leaves turn bright yellow in late October. If you look closely at witch hazel during this period, you’ll see the flowers just starting to open. Most bees and butterflies are dead or dormant by this time, so witch hazel is pollinated by small flies and wasps. They may not be the prettiest flower on this list, but witch hazel may be the only plant still blooming when winter officially starts on the solstice. They are most often found in rich moist areas of forests, often on in steep terrain.

Common Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) flowers

Common Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)

Madison-Area Spring Wildflower Walk Series 2023

Good Oak is Partnering with Wild Ones Madison on a series of wildflower walks, to explore some of the great native plants in our local natural areas.

    During this series of wildflower walks, we’ll visit a variety of natural areas in and near Madison and explore some of the earliest blooming plants of the year. You can learn to identify many species of native wildflowers. We’ll discuss the ecology of the habitats these plants are found in and the implications for plants and animals that rely on our urban and suburban natural areas for survival.

    These hikes are free and open to the public. Wear clothing appropriate for walking on and off trails in naturals areas, such as sturdy boots/shoes and long pants, and be prepared to be outside in whatever the spring throws at us for weather for several hours. A drink and a snack are recommended. Ticks or mosquitos may be present, so take precautions as necessary.

Thursday, March 30th, 6-7:15pm

Skunk Cabbage, The Harbinger of Spring at the UW Arboretum

On this walk we will learn about the unique biology and ecology of Wisconsin’s earliest-blooming, and perhaps most unique wildflower. Along the way we’ll look for other early signs of spring.

Meet at the Wingra Springs Parking Lot, on top of the hill, south of the Arboretum's main Visitors Center.

Saturday April 22, 10am - 1pm

Earth Day Celebration: Hoyt Park Wildflower Walk, Garlic Mustard Pull, and Picnic

Wild Ones is teaming up with the Friends of Hoyt Park to join in on their annual garlic mustard pull, a short early spring wildflower walk and a picnic. Join us for all, or just one part of this event, we will be meeting back at the main shelter at Hoyt Park for each.

Schedule:

10:00am - garlic mustard pull!

11:45am-12:30pm - wildflower hike

12:00pm to 1:30pm: Picnic!

For the picnic, bring yourself, bring a lunch for yourself and food to share if you’d like.

Thursday May 4th,  6-8pm

Early Prairie Wildflowers at Westport Drumlin

Come and see pasque flower, prairie smoke, buttercups, violets and more at this unique remnant on a glacial drumlin. This walk will include over a mile of hiking, including on steep and rough terrain.

Meet at the parking lot for Empire Prairies State Natural Area - Westport Drumlin Prairie at the high point on Bong Road east of Waunaukee.

Thursday May 11th 6-7:30pm

Trillium Show at Heritage Sanctuary and Elvehjem Nature Sanctuary

The Heritage Sanctuary is famous for a carpet of great white trillium in the spring. These small East-Side hidden gems have a great diversity of spring wildflower to enjoy. Meet at the west side of Heritage Heights Park, with parking along Meadowlark Drive, Madison.

Wednesday May 17th, 6-8pm

Late-Spring Woodland Wildflowers at Reese Woods and the UW Lakeshore Preserve 

We’ll check out some rocky, west-side woodlands to see a diverse mix of late-spring wildflower color. Columbine, yellow pimpernel, red trillium, Virginia bluebells, and more!

Park on Tally Ho Lane, near Highbury Rd. Meet near Reese Woods in Shorewood Hills. Park on Tally Ho Lane, near Highbury Rd. We plan to head over to Lakeshore Nature Preserve for additional wildflower viewing.

Check out the Wild Ones Madison Calendar for more events.

List of Southern Wisconsin Native Plants for Pollinators

As part of my recent Gardening for Pollinators presentation, I have created a list of over 200 native perennials, shrubs and vines that provide the best resources for pollinators.

Click on the below link to download:

List of Southern Wisconsin Native Perennials, Shrubs and Vines for Pollinators

Note: This list is pretty complete, but I have a couple more hours of clean-up to do to remove some excess data. This should work for now, and I will update this note when the final version is available in a few days.

The Process of Oak Woodland Restoration

If you’ve read my previous articles about the history of oak woodlands in the Midwest and how to assess the health of oak woodlands, it should now be clear that most woodlands in our region (and particularly, in southern Wisconsin) are in pretty bad shape and need active management to restore them to ecological health. In this article I’ll explain how we go about doing that.

Site Assessment, Site History Research and Planning:

Look at the Maps

I always prepare for a site evaluation by looking at modern areal imagery for a site and topographic maps. You can use Google Maps, but many counties have GIS websites that help you get more detailed imagery, the property lines, and sometimes other valuable layers such as soil type or historic areal imagery. Just do an internet search for “(your county’s name) GIS” and you should find what you’re looking for. This information gives me a basic understanding of the topographical, geological and hydrological aspects of the site. I can also see what the current vegetation cover conditions are, which gives me some idea what to expect when I get on-site.

This areal image of Cherokee Marsh in Dane County, WI shows a lot of detail useful to understanding the ecosystem. Property lines can be seen in yellow.

On-the-Ground Site Assessment

A lot of the basics of site assessment are covered in my previous article. Evaluating things on the ground allows me to understand the current site conditions and have some idea of the history of the site. Documenting the plant and animal species you find on a site is a key part of the assessment. Having a thorough plant inventory for the site will tell you a lot about the original natural community on the site, how much it has been impacted, and give you some guidance as to how to go forward as you try to re-establish a healthy natural community.

A detailed plant survey from many moons ago. Thanks for your help Lane.

Site History Research

In Wisconsin, we have a remarkable resource available to us in the form of scans of the original land surveyors’ notes from the 1830’s. So go to Wisconsin Public Land Survey Records website and look up what those surveyors found in your area. (Some instructions are available on the website to help guide you through the process.) Though they often don’t have a lot of detail, these notes are invaluable in developing an understanding of what the immediate area was like at the time of settlement. (Hint: there weren’t nearly as many trees, and the ones that were there were probably oaks.)

Then I start to look at historic areal imagery. These go back as far as 1937 and, for Wisconsin, can be found at the Wisconsin Areal Imagery Finder. Go ahead and compare that imagery to your modern satellite photo. You will probably see that in 1937 there were not nearly as many trees as there are today!

If you wish to see areal imagery from later in the 20th Century, through today, there are a couple possibilities. Some county GIS websites have these images. (Dane County DCI Maps is such a great resource!) Using Google Earth Pro desktop, you can get imagery as far back as the 1990’s and sometimes earlier. If you’re up for a trip, the state transportation department or a state geography library will have hard copies of the areal images taken from the 1930’s to the 1990’s. In Wisconsin, this means a trip to the Geology Library in Science Hall on the UW campus.

A scan of original surveyors notes from the Wisconsin Public Lands Survey Records website.

A 1937 areal image of what is now Edna Taylor Conservation park in Madison, WI.

Developing a Target Community Type, and A Plan to Get There

Now that you have an understanding of the history of the site and its current conditions you can start putting together a plan to restore it going forward. The first step is to develop a target natural community. Sometimes, the goal should be to return the site to the natural community type found on the site before settlement. Other times the reality of current conditions make establishing a different natural community more practical. For example, surveyors’ notes and 1937 photos may indicate that your woodland was originally an open savanna of bur oak and white oak. However, today you may have numerous straight-trunked red oak along with your white oak in your woodland, and bur oak are now absent (due to logging). In a case like this, it may be better to work with the mature red and white oaks that you have to establish an oak woodland, rather than to cut down a lot of red oaks and then plant bur oaks to recreate a savanna.

One thing I consider strongly is ground layer vegetation. If you find any prairie species, it’s best to open the site up as much as possible to an open savanna condition. Similarly, if you find savanna plants, you should at least open the canopy to a very open woodland condition (50% canopy cover or less). Planning your target community becomes an act of balancing the model of the original plant community with the reality of what you are dealing with right now.

Woodland Restoration Work, on the Ground

Clearing Invasive Brush

The first step on the ground is always clearing invasive brush. Non-native species such as common buckthorn, bush honeysuckle, and white mulberry get most of the attention. Japanese barberry, multiflora rose and Oriental bittersweet are (currently) less common invasive shrubs, but equally deserving of elimination.

It is also important to understand that native shrubs and trees can become over-abundant as well, and large monocultures of these shrubs reduces the biodiversity potential of a site. So we often clear prickly ash, grey dogwood, and sumac, with the goal of reducing their populations, but not eliminating them entirely. Box elder is a native tree and not part of an upland woodland community, so remove this prolific species just like you would buckthorn or honeysuckle.

By removing these invasive non-native, and aggressive native woody plants, you eliminate them from competing with desirable native plants for sunlight and soil moisture. This also has the effect of making the woodland more open, and easier to move through, and work in.

We do brush clearing and tree thinning in the winter months to avoid harming desirable native plants and to avoid causing soil compaction or erosion. There are many ways to go about clearing brush, but our basic approach is:

• Cut each stem as low to the ground as possible.
• Treat each cut stem with concentrated herbicide. (For specific recommendations see our Weed Identification and Control Sheets linked at each species name above.)
• Clean-up is the most labor intensive part of this process. However, if the cut brush is widely scattered and does not inhibit moving through and working in the woodland, then you may not need to clean up. But typically, some clean-up is needed. This can be done by dragging brush by hand. But when possible, we prefer to use a tractor or skid loader with a grapple attachment, just be sure the ground is frozen and preferably snow covered so that you don’t disturb the soil by compaction or erosion.
• Piling and burning: Piles should be placed carefully to avoid harming high-quality ground-layer vegetation or sending too much heat into any trees’ canopies or trunks. While we’re out there clearing brush, we start with a small fire and slowly build it to a brush-eating bonfire. Fortunately, live ‘green’ buckthorn and honeysuckle both happen to burn very well. Keep the number of brush piles limited by feeding the fire as you work, and cut the brush to 6’ lengths, or shorter, to limit the footprint of the burn pile and allow for a more efficient fire.
• Follow-up treatment in the following growing season is critical, as some brush will resprout, and you will likely see many small invasive woody plants that you had missed during the winter brush clearing work, or that have sprouted since. Early-to-mid summer after these resprouting woody plants have fully leafed out is a good time to spot treat these plants with a basal bark herbicide application.

Cutting buckthorn with a brushcutter.

Each stump is treated with herbicide.

And the resulting brush is burned in a pile.

For larger projects, forestry mowing is an option. But this should only be done on firm, frozen ground, and follow-up resprout treatment is essential.

Removing Aggressive/Over-Abundant Trees

Typically we do this while we’re already out there clearing brush and the brush piles are burning. Restoring oak woodlands often involves removing a large number of young, small diameter non-oak trees that have filled in the woodland since pre-settlement times (and largely in the past 40 years). We will fell some of these trees, but larger trees (>10”) we typically girdle and leave standing to reduce the workload and create wildlife habitat.

An examples of thinning prescription might include:

• Remove non-oak trees that are in poor health; cherries with black knot disease, elms with dutch elm disease, or trees which have been damaged by other trees falling on them.
• Remove any trees impinging on mature oaks. We try to cut down any non-oak tree growing within 10-20’ of an oak canopy (many small trees will grow right up into the oak canopy). These keystone tree species need some growing space to be healthy.
• Remove any non-oak tree less than 6” or 8” in diameter. These are the youngest up-start trees that haven’t been in the woods very long.
• Canopy cover needs to be reduced to no more than 70% if you hope to get oak regeneration or shade tolerant wildflowers and grasses established. 50% canopy cover is probably more appropriate for restoring an oak woodland and less than 50% if savanna is your restoration target.
• For savanna restorations, typically the only trees we are leaving are oaks and hickories, and sometimes we are even thinning northern pin oak, shagbark hickory and butternut hickory if there is an abundance of these species.

An upcoming blog post will cover how to decide what undesirable trees to remove to restore an oak woodland in more detail. Stay tuned.

Judging by its open branching structure, this big white oak originally grew in a savanna. Many small hackberries will need to be removed to to preserve the health of this heritage oak.

Controlling Herbaceous Invasive Species

As you are clearing the weedy woody component of a woodland, be sure not to clear so much area that you can’t mange the weeds that come up in that area in the following growing seasons. I describe garlic mustard control in detail in this blog post. Dames rocket, motherwort, and Japanese hedge parsley are similarly troublesome invasive biennials that should be treated while you are working to control garlic mustard. In sunnier sites, other weeds that might come up could include burdock, biennial thistles, Canada thistle and mullein.

Got Brambles?

Many sites with a history of grazing may have a lot of raspberry brambles and gooseberries. Again, these are native plants, having some of them is a good thing, but too many of them reduces biodiversity and makes it difficult to move through and work in the woods. The best way to keep these thorny native shrubs in check is to mow (or selectively cut) them right after they leaf out in the spring, and repeat this mowing as soon as they resprout for the entire growing season. The goal is to reduce their numbers, and allow growing space for other native plants, not eliminate them entirely.

Reintroducing a Prescribed Fire Regime

This can be a big turning point in woodland restoration. In sites with a lot of oak leaf litter, this may be done shortly after brush clearing. In sites with less oak leaf litter as fuel, you will need a few years to establish ground layer flora that can contribute to the fuel load. Prescribed burns can greatly help in the control of invasive plants such as garlic mustard and buckthorn seedlings. Often a burn will reveal and invigorate native grasses and wildflowers that have been struggling to survive, or invigorate new seedlings coming up from long-dormant seed. Burning off the leaf litter can also prepare a site for interseeding.

Fires in oak woodland are not as dramatic as you might think.

Reintroducing Extirpated Plants by Seed

Even the best intact woodlands will require some reintroduction of species that have gone locally extinct. Most sites will need a lot of species reintroduced. We usually start by spreading a commercial seed mix appropriate for the habitat type (woodland or savanna) and soil conditions (dry, mesic or wet). If you are DIY-ing your woodland restoration, you may want to buy some seed or trade seed (for other seed or volunteer labor) with local conservation groups.

Reintroducing by Planting Live Plants

Some species, particularly spring-ephemerals and the more shade-loving woodland species, are not available as seed, or don’t establish easily by dried seed. For these species you will need to plant live plants. We usually recommend doing this in small pods where you can keep track of them and water and weed them as necessary, and even put a small fence around them to exclude deer and turkey until the plants are better established.

Long Term Maintenance

Long term maintenance will depend on where you start. If you have a lot of garlic mustard, you will probably be managing it for a decade or more. Continued prescribed burns will help move everything in the right direction favoring native plants and discouraging invasive species. You will need to continue to monitor the site for resurgence of any invasive species, and positive or negative patterns in plant establishment. Hopefully you have a pretty thorough plant inventory by now. Start comparing the plant species on your site to nearby, healthier oak woodland communities. This should allow you to understand what species you are missing. Continual interseeding and exchanging seed with other sites will help increase plant diversity, which in turn will increase the value of the site to a variety of wildlife, and the resiliency of the site from everything from invasive species, to erosion, to climate change.

Benchmarks for Woodland Restoration

Here are three key things to look for to assess if you are seeing success in your restoration project:

• A healthy woodland will have a wide diversity of native wildflowers and grasses, with flowers blooming throughout the growing season, from April to October. Spring ephemerals should put on a show first thing in the spring, but having a variety of mid-summer flowers is the strongest indicator that you’re on the right track.
• The work you do should preserve the health of old oaks and other mature trees: reducing competition from other woody plants, increasing soil moisture and nutrient availability while reducing erosion.
• Oaks should successfully germinate amongst the ground layer vegetation over time, and survive to grow into the canopy. If you don’t see this happening, you probably need to open the canopy further to let more light to the ground, or work on controlling over-abundant deer that could be eating all your oak saplings every winter.
• Restoration work should stabilize soils, reducing erosion and starting to rebuild an organic-matter-rich surface soil. Never run equipment in such a way that it causes rutting, compaction or erosion.
• Wildlife return: You should see more pollinators, both bees and butterflies. You should see more songbirds, if you’re lucky you may get a visit from eastern bluebirds or the rare red-headed woodpecker.

When in doubt, conduct prescribed burns more frequently, and keep adding native seed and plants to areas where more native plants are needed.

In the next article, I’ll talk about why its so important that we begin the process of restoration in these woodlands that need our help.

A healthy restored woodland.

Assessing the Health of Oak Woodlands, a Guide for Land Owners and Land Managers

In my last blog post, I presented an abbreviated history of oak woodlands in our region, from their ‘pristine’ pre-settlement condition to the unfortunate reality of the present: that most of our woodlands are degraded from the impacts of nearly two centuries of settlement, development, and neglect. In this post, I’m going to give you some tools to evaluate the health of your woodland, and you won’t need a degree in ecology to do it. By asking the questions below, you can start to get an idea of the health of your woodland and develop a vision for how it can improve. While this guide is specific to southern Wisconsin, it should be a useful guide anywhere in the upper Midwest, south of the Tension Zone.

Woodland Structure:

How far can you see into your woodlands?

During the growing season, does it become a green wall that you can’t peer into, or can you see for quite a distance? Early settlers reported that you could see for up to a mile through woodlands at that time. They were able to drive a wagon or carriage through oak woodlands or even ride a horse at a gallop! If this all seems hard to imagine, then your woodland is too dense with brush and trees.

If the edge of your woodland is a 'wall of green' like this, that's not normal or healthy.

How much sunlight can you see through the tree canopy?

Is it 90% leaves and 10% blue sky? Or is it 50/50? A typical target for woodland restoration is to have between 50% and 70% canopy (50-30% blue sky!), and for savannas, we like to see less than 50% canopy.

This woodland canopy is about 75% full, this is within the natural range of variability for a woodland, but some minor thinning might stimulate ground layer vegetation and oak sapling growth.

What kind of trees are your oldest trees?

OK, this does take a little botanical knowledge, but we’ll try to keep it as simple as possible. If you can identify an oak vs any other kind of tree, you should start to see some patterns emerge. If a site has historically been an oak woodland, you should see that the largest trees are oaks. A typical pattern is that the largest and oldest trees are oaks, but the more numerous and younger trees are other species such as cherry, boxelder, mulberry, elm, hackberry, walnut, maple, and basswood, among others. Many times, there is a pretty big gap in age with the oaks being over 100 years old, and all other tree species behind less than 50 years old. These younger trees do not belong in an oak woodland, and are taking up growing space, sunlight and water that would be better used by young oaks, wildflowers and grasses.

Sometimes you might see other trees like maple, basswood or cherry that are nearly as large, but they may still be much younger since they grow faster than oaks (at least the above-ground portion of the trees grows faster).

Lastly, there are certainly cases where the largest maples and basswoods are as large, or larger than the oaks, and red oak are the most numerous oak species. In these cases, you probably have a site that was a closed-canopy, mixed-hardwood forest to begin with.

In this woodland the two largest trees are white oak (left) and red oak (right), these are also the oldest trees around 100 years old, maybe a little older. The many skinny 'poles' are sugar maple and are much younger, less than 30 years old, and there is also some elm and cherry which are likely less than 50 years old.

How big are the largest trees in your woodland?

Tree growth rates vary a lot between species, so it’s not easy to compare the age of an oak versus a maple based on size. Even within a species, growth rates can vary wildly based on soil type and moisture availability, competition, site aspect, environmental stresses, and land use among other factors. With that in-mind, here are some rough estimates that I use to assess ages of white and bur oak are:

• A 16” diameter at breast height (DBH) oak is about 70 years old.
• A 20” DBH oak is about 100 years old.
• A 24” oak is probably over 150 years old.

If you have multiple oaks which are a little over 2’ in diameter, that probably indicates they sprouted around the time of Euro-American settlement. This may have been the result of fire-suppressed “grub oaks” sprouting after regular fires ceased, or as new seedlings that sprouted after the original woodland on the site was cleared. Oaks larger than this are probably pre-settlement, “old growth” oaks. But again, growth rates vary a lot from site to site; on dry sites, a 24” bur oak oak may be more than 250 years old!

If your largest oaks are under 20” (and your site is not particularly dry), it’s likely that the site has been logged in the last century. Sometimes your biggest trees are 12-16” DBH, that typically means these trees are roughly 40-70 years old. Also look for multi-stemmed trees. If you see a lot of multi-stemmed trees that is usually a sign that the area was clearcut and these multi stemmed trees are resprouts from the root of a tree that was cut.

This ~4-foot diameter bur oak is easily over 300 years old.

Do you see any young oak trees?

If you don’t see young and middle-aged oaks, that means the oaks are not reproducing. If there are no young oaks to replace the old oaks, before too long the keystone species of this community will be lost.

Young oak trees, like this chinquapin oak sapling, are now among the most rare plants on the landscape.

Ground Layer Vegetation:

Is the ground layer in your woods “green” or “brown”?

Once the growing season is in full swing, it is not natural or healthy for there to be “brown” areas in your woodland that only have dead leaves or bare soil. A healthy woodland will be “green” with plants growing on or over every inch of soil surface by late-spring. If there are areas of barren soil, this is usually a sign that the tree canopy or brush layer is too dense and not allowing light to the ground for groundlayer wildflowers and grasses to grow. Bare soil can also be the result of compaction or erosion, or browsing by over-abundant deer.

Here buckthorn has shaded out all of the ground layer vegetation. Historic grazing probably had already weekend the ground layer flora. Excessive native trees, especially sugar maple, can have the same effect (see above).

Are there many spring ephemeral wildflowers in your woodland?

Spring ephemeral wildflowers go through their entire life cycle in roughly the first 2 months of the growing season. They are among the first plants to sprout in the spring; they flower before trees have fully leafed-out and then go dormant before the heat of summer with a long-lived perennial root that lies dormant until the following spring. Most commonly recognized spring ephemerals include trillium, spring beauty and Virginia bluebell. Do you see many flowers in the early spring, but then the entire plant turns yellow and disappears by early-summer? Many woodlands that have been heavily grazed over the years have lost their spring ephemeral component, either to direct consumption, or trampling or erosion. If you still have some spring ephemeral wildflowers that’s good - if you have a carpet of them, that’s great!

If you have lots of flowers blooming in the early spring, that's a good sign that grazing was less intense, and there is a greater chance for more native plants to come up with restoration work.

Are there flowers blooming in your woods throughout the entire growing season?

Many woodlands have a burst of wildflowers in the spring, but then nothing blooming mid summer… and then just a few goldenrods and asters blooming in the fall. Or maybe you just have flowers blooming on the edge of your woods, but not the interior? That’s not normal. A healthy woodland should have a variety of species blooming throughout the entire growing season. If you have few wildflowers in your woodland overall, that’s likely a result of over-grazing and erosion. If you have spring ephemerals and some fall bloomers, but not much during the bulk of the growing season, then that is typically the result of too much shade from the tree canopy or shrub layer.

This is a healthy woodland (Somme Prairie Grove) in August in the middle of the drought of 2012!

Do you encounter a lot of thorny plants?

If you go-off trail in your woodland, do you quickly get poked by lots of thorny raspberries, gooseberries, and prickly ash? An abundance of thorny brambles and shrubs indicates a history of heavy grazing. The mechanism here is simple, cows don’t want to eat thorny things. In an environment where grazing pressure is intense, less palatable plants will have a competitive advantage. Over decades of grazing, these thorny plants dominate. More recently, browsing by over-abundant white-tailed deer have maintained the status quo. Though these thorny shrubs are native, a diverse assemblage of plant species is important for woodland health. So having a small number of thorny species taking up a large amount of the growing space is not a healthy situation.

You can see why cattle would not want to browse on wild gooseberry! Seeing a lot of these plants, or raspberries, or prickly ash, is usually a sign your woodland was heavily grazed in the past.

Do you get a lot of seeds stuck to your clothing?

These plants are adapted to have their seeds distributed by large mammals. So it follows that, a woodland with a lot of sticky-seeded plants has experience a heavily grazed past, and/or an over-abundance of deer in the present. With the exception of the notorious burdock, most of the sticky-seeded plants in our woodlands are actually native. These includes stickseed (the worst!), enchanters nightshade and wood avens. These weedy natives are much more common in our woodlands today than they should be.

The notorious Stickseed, if abundant, is a sign of grazing impacts, and/or over abundant deer.

Soils and Water:

Soils are perhaps the most important component in our ecosystem, and yet their value is rarely recognized. Healthy soils provide many ecosystem services such as purifying surface and ground water, providing good conditions for seed germination, and providing habitat for organisms ranging from bacteria to badgers. Unfortunately, land-use practices such as row-crop agriculture, grazing, mining and urban development destroy or severely damage soils and often lead to erosion. Let’s take a look at the soils in your woodland:

Does your soil have a lot of rocks, or a lot of organic matter?

The “O-Horizon” is a layer of partially decomposed organic matter on top of the mineral soil. Do you have an O-Horizon, or do you have relatively intact leaf-litter over top of bare mineral soil? It’s important to consider that soil types can vary a lot across our landscapes. Even healthy soils may have a lot of rock, gravel, and sand since glaciation left many deposits of these materials across the landscape. Furthermore, in the Driftless region, bedrock is often pretty close to the surface. With that in mind, on average a healthier woodland will have better developed (less eroded) soils than a less healthy site.

Is your surface soil dark or light in color?

The “A-Horizon” is the upper layer of mineral soil, and will have a fair amount of organic matter mixed in with it It’s usually black or dark in color. This layer also has the most living organisms in it. A healthy soil should have a solid matrix of plant roots and soil organisms. Across the slopes and upland areas of your woodland, if you find that you have fairly beige soils with a lot of clay or rock at the surface, it’s likely that original O and A soil horizons in your woodland have eroded away.

There are many causes of soil erosion. By far, the greatest impact is from over a century of heavy grazing that most of our woodlands in southern Wisconsin have experienced. Conversely, in northern Illinois soil loss is less severe because there were fewer dairy farms and therefore fewer cattle grazing in the woodlands. Other causes of erosion include an overly-dense tree canopy which leaves no light for ground layer plants. These ground layer plants are critical to holding and developing soils; without them soil washes away and the system cannot recover. Furthermore, we now find non-native earthworms across most of the landscape, which can consume and diminish the O horizon, making it more difficult for many native plants to establish, and therefore accelerating erosion as well.

Do your oldest trees have a lot of exposed root flare or roots?

Root flare is the lowest part of the truck of a tree where it starts to spread out and transition to the roots. Having a little root flare visible is normal, and natural, and, in fact is an important guideline when planting a tree. With some exception, most trees will have only a gentle outward curve in the lower ~10” of the trunk, and will never establish roots above ground. If you start looking at the base of your trees, on some sites you can see old oak trees which record 8-12” of soil loss around their base.

Inversely, if you have trees at the bottom of a slope do they lack root flair? This may be because soil has washed down from higher up the slope and settled there, effecting burying the base of the tree. Roots that are exposed to air can develop bark to protect themselves. But tree trunks cannot shed their bark if buried, and trunk rot and tree death can result.

You can see some modest root flare on the red oak on the right, and significant root flare on the white oak on the far left. I would estimate that this site (which is relatively flat) has lost about 6" of topsoil since pre-settlement times.

Is there a lot of old junk in your woods?

If you have a lot of junk in your woods, ranging from bottles and cans to ancient farm equipment, it suggests that your woodland has perhaps been abused, but at least has been heavily used.

Wildlife:

Wildlife, by and large, respond to the plant community and geophysical structure of a site. While all wildlife will benefit from a healthier ecosystem, with increased diversity, numbers and health, certain species are more sensitive than others to ecological degradation. And certainly, some species are more visible than others. Here’s what you can look-out for:

Have you ever seen a bluebird or redheaded woodpecker in your woodland?

If you have, that’s great news! These birds, which were once abundant in our landscape, require open woodlands and savanna environments. So if bluebirds or redheads are nesting in your woodland, that suggests that you at least have the habitat structure that these stunning birds are looking for. If you don’t have them, consider what you can do to make your woodland a place they could call home.

Do you see many bees and butterflies in your woodland?

A healthy woodland should be home to plenty of pollinators. These pollinators need the above-mentioned flowers blooming throughout the growing season. Butterflies also need their larval host plants.

A monarch catapillar on poke milkweed, which is our true woodland milkweed species.

Conclusion:

Aldo Leopold once wrote:

One of the penalties of an ecological education is that one lives alone in a world of wounds. Much of the damage inflicted on land is quite invisible to laymen. An ecologist must either harden his shell and make believe that the consequences of science are none of his business, or he must be the doctor who sees the marks of death in a community that believes itself well and does not want to be told otherwise.

Now perhaps you can see some of the wounds in your woodland. But we can heal these wounds through ecological restoration. In the next article in this series, I’ll talk about the benefits that come with restoring oak woodlands to health.